35 Cheap Organic Fertilizers to Power UP Your Garden

Home gardeners spend millions each year on fertilizer for their gardens and houseplants. WOW! While many scientists agree that chemical fertilizer is harming the environment, organic fertilizer is draining our wallets. The good news is that you can easily make your own fertilizers from organic waste material and other things that you have around the house.

3 Reasons You Need Organic Fertilizer

Your plants need organic fertilizer because:

  1. Most soil does not provide the essential nutrients that are required for the best plant growth and production.
  2. Even if you are super lucky to have rich loamy soil that all of us crave, as your plants grow they absorb those nutrients and leave the soil less fertile.
  3. All of those beautiful flowers, fruits, and veggies that you grew last year took the nutrients that were in the soil. This year, your garden needs another boost of nutrients for this year’s plants.

Why It’s Important To Know Your Soil

While it’s important to fertilize your plants and the soil, it’s also important to know what your soil needs. That’s where a soil test comes in. Get one from your local county extension office. When you send in your sample, you’ll get the report. It tells you what your soil has in abundance and what you really need to add for best plant growth.

Also, soils vary in their ability to hold nutrients and make them available to plants. Sandy soils do not hold nutrients well, clay soils do. However, clay soils do not like to give up the water they hold, so it is more difficult for plants to take up the nutrients that are available.

Which Do I Need A Soil Amendment Or Organic Fertilizer?

Soil amendments are mixed with soil to improve the physical properties or increase microbial action. It makes a plant’s roots happy and healthy. Amendments improve the soil’s water retention, permeability, drainage, air holding capacity, and structure.

Fertilizers are soil amendments that are applied to promote plant growth not change the soils characteristics.

The short answer is you need both. Okay, so what’s the difference? Soil Amendments are added to…well…the soil!  You can add them before, during, or after planting. However, the nutrients are not readily available for the plants to take up. Microorganisms in the soil need to break them down further so the plants can use the nutrients in the amendment. Fertilizers are pretty close to being available for the plants to get their nutrients pretty quickly. Think of soil amendments like eating your favorite veggie. The nutrients in that veggie aren’t readily available for your body to use right away. Your body has to digest it for the nutrients to be available for your body to use.

Organic vs. Inorganic Manufactured Fertilizer

Organic fertilizer comes from the remains of or are because of different types of organisms. Microorganisms found in the soil breakdown the organic material, making its nutrients readily available to the plants.

Inorganic fertilizers completely or partially contain man-made materials. Manufacturers combine these in different ways and amounts to get a super-growth fertilizer that may or may not be organic. Many inorganic fertilizers are manufactured using fossil fuels, too.

TIP: Over use of inorganic fertilizers or adding a fertilizer that your soil or plants don’t need can lead to a buildup of salts and other minerals in the soil causing damage to your plants. It can also be a waste of money. More is not better when it comes to any kind of fertilizer!

Organic Fertilizer

Organic fertilizer releases nutrients slowly and decreases the risk of over-fertilization. The slow release of nutrients also means they are available for a longer period of time. Many organic fertilizers improve your soil, by increasing your soil’s ability to hold water and nutrients. They will also help decrease erosion and hard, packed soil due to wind and rain. Organic fertilizer adds natural nutrients, feeds important microbes, and improves the soil structure.

On the downside, organic fertilizer is released slowly so your plants will be nutrient deficient until the decomposing process is completed, and some organic fertilizers contain lower percentages of the three key nutrients: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium (N-P-K). Timing is everything with any fertilizer. The best time is to add them when your soil is waiting to be planted.

TIP: There are fast-acting organic fertilizers, too. Bat guano, fish meal, and worm casting all have nutrients readily available for plants.


You’ve probably already read about
15 of the best fertilizers here.

Here are 35 more great fertilizers to consider:

  1. Worm castings
 – Worm castings are soil superfood! They provide nitrogen and make soil absorbent. A huge number of beneficial microbes and bacteria are introduced to the soil, too.
  2. Beer
 – The jury is out on this one. Many tests have shown that beer doesn’t add anything, but some people swear by it. Beer is a simple sugar and plants need complex sugars. Scientifically speaking, it probably doesn’t work. However, it does work to get rid of slugs and is a great cool down on a hot gardening day! Also, if you brew your own beer or live near a microbrewery, you might want to use “Beer Mash” (the grains leftover from making beer). It’s a great soil amendment.
  3. Ammonia
 – Ammonia naturally occurs in the soil. There are microbes in the soil that pull nitrogen from the air and put it into the soil in the form of ammonia. The amount is what is important here. Use 1 or 2 ounces per gallon of water mixed with molasses. Microbes love this stuff. If you’re uncomfortable using man-made ammonia, you can always slide down the list and use urine instead.
  4. Liquid Dish Soap
 – This is another one that is up for debate. There are a lot of studies that show that dish detergent (made with a lot of chemicals) is harmful to plants. However, there are some organic dish soaps that will help your “supertonic” to penetrate the soil. You only need a couple of drops in 32 oz. of water to get the job done. Remember, more is not better!
  5. Dog and Cat Food
 – Make sure that it is an organic pet food. Sprinkle the dry pet food on the bed or container. Turn the soil or water it in. It provides protein to feed the fungi and bacteria, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium, plus other minerals. To discourage vertebrae pests, be sure to cover this fertilizer with cardboard.
  6. Tea
 – Tea and tea bags are excellent for your garden. As the bag and tea decompose, they release nitrogen. First, make sure your tea bag is compostable. You don’t want the ones made of polypropylene. If the bag is slippery, don’t use it in the garden. Tea also makes a great brew for acid-loving plants like azaleas and blueberries. Tea also helps deter some root maggots.
  7. Bone Meal
 – Alright so this is a stretch for just having some lying around the house. However, bone meal is a really good source of phosphorus and protein. It is coarsely ground animal bones and waste products. Make sure you need phosphorus in your soil before adding it. A soil test is your best friend in the garden. However, if you want to make your own bone meal, here’s what you do: 1. Collect bones by storing them in the freezer. 2. Clean them by making a bone broth. 3. Once they are clean, sterilize them. Place them on a baking sheet under the broiler for 10-15 minutes. 4. Dry the bones by placing the cooking sheet on the counter for about three to four weeks. They need to be completely dry. 5. Crush them into a fine powder with a food processor. If you use a mortar and pestle, be sure to wear a mask over your nose and mouth. 6. It is now ready to use.
  8. Antacid Tablets
 – If your soil is low in calcium, this should be a go-to. It helps prevent blossom end rot in your tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Push one tablet into the soil by the plant’s roots. Voila! Instant calcium boost.
  9. Coconut Coir
 – Coconut coir has become the replacement for the non-renewable Peat Moss. This soil amendment adds air and space to assist with water retention and nutrient uptake. It makes a great seedling starter!
  10. Humanure – (To prevent pathogens and disease, only use for fruit and nut tree, not vegetables)
 Okay, I hear you with your “Ewww’s,” but hear me out. This organic material is a valuable resource rich in soil nutrients. In the U.S., each of us wastes more than a thousand pounds of humanure each year. Composting is key! Depending on your climate, it takes anywhere from one to ten years to fully compost human feces and breakdown the pathogens. Please consult a Humanure expert in your area. For more information, check out The Humanure Handbook by Joseph Jenkins.
  11. Newspaper
 – Makes a great mulch and soil amendment. The added bonus is that the soy-based ink kills diseases in the soil. It can be shredded or laid in a thick layer on your beds. It is best to wet the newspaper before applying. NOTE: Do not use the glossy inserts from the paper. The colored inks and finishes can be toxic.
  12. Comfrey
 – This deep-rooted herb was once a traditional remedy to help heal broken bones. Its vast root system acts as an accumulator by extracting a wide range of nutrients from deep in your soil. These nutrients naturally accumulate in its fast-growing leaves. Cut 4 to 5 pounds (1.8 to 2.27 kg) of leaves from each plant. It is super-rich in nitrogen and potassium. Some research has shown that comfrey leaves have 2 to 3 times more potassium than farmyard manures!
  13. Urine
 – Yes, you read that right! Human urine is an excellent source of nitrogen. It is great to add to compost tea or your compost pile as an activator. Pathogens, disease, and toxins are quickly killed within 24 hours of leaving your body. Dilute the urine with water in a ratio 1::2 and water your plants.
  14. Citrus rinds – 
Stir those rinds right into the soil. As they break down, they’ll release sulfur, magnesium, calcium, potassium, and more nutrients. You can also dry the peels and grind them into a fine powder that can be added to the soil.
  15. Kelp meal or seaweed
 – Kelp contains small amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, but it’s very high in trace elements, too. Typically, you’ll mix this liquid fertilizer with water. Use it as a foliar spray or pour it onto the soil around plants.
  16. Granite dust – 
Granite is made of volcanic rock. It is filled with more than 60 different elements, including potassium, calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium. Trace elements in granite make the soil nutrient dense. Be sure to read the label!
  17. Green manures
 – This is a favorite! Green manures are a fall cover crop that is grown on beds or pastures before or after crops or flowers to add nutrients back into the soil as they grow. They get turned under after their season. Some green manures include clovers, vetch, rye, and mustards.
  18. White Vinegar
 – There is a lot of chatter on the Internet about white vinegar changing the pH level of your soil. Tests have shown that it may have a temporary effect, but it is nearly impossible to change the pH of your soil, except over the very long-term. However, feed your container plants with a mixture of 1 Tablespoon of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of sugar in 8 ounces of water. Bring the mix to a slow boil until the sugar dissolves. Then, let it cool and feed those hungry plants.
  19. Grass clippings and Weeds – These are an excellent source of nitrogen and potassium for your fertilizer teas. Put the clippings in a 5-gallon bucket filled with water. Cover and let marinate for 3 to 4 weeks. You’ll have a lovely batch of “green” fertilizer tea.
  20. Mushrooms
 – The part of the mushroom that you see is actually the fruiting body. In the soil is where the real magic happens. Fungi are part of the soil web that helps bring nutrients to your plants.
  21. Borax
 – Some plants of the Brassica Family, like broccoli and cauliflower need boron (found in borax). Be sure to do a soil test to see if your soil needs boron. If it does, sprinkle 1 Tablespoon over 100 linear feet.
  22. Bat guano
 – Whether fresh or dry, bat poo adds a heavy dose of nitrogen to the soil. It acts fast and has very little odor. It also helps enrich the soil and help with drainage and texture. Add it directly to the soil or make a bat guano tea!
  23. Rabbit droppings
 – Bunny poo has a high concentration of nitrogen and phosphorus, as well as other trace minerals. It can be added directly into the soil or added to your compost pile. Bunny Poo Tea can be made using a 5-gallon bucket, a shovel full of rabbit pellets, add water, and let steep for two days. Water the soil when it’s ready! Watch our short video on raising your own colony of rabbits!
  24. Chicken feathers – Feathers from your backyard chickens add nitrogen to your compost pile, and eventually, the garden. First, put them into your compost pile to let them decompose.
  25. Shellfish – 
Lobster, shrimp, and crab shells provide nutrients, including phosphorus. However, the bacteria that breaks them down is even more important! Simmer the shells for 20 to 30 minutes in boiling water. Drain well. Put them in a food dehydrator or oven until dry. Crush the shells with a mortar and pestle. Add to your compost pile or directly into the soil.
  26. Baking Soda – 
In order to sweeten tomatoes and discourage pests, lightly sprinkle baking soda on the soil.
  27. Compost
 – Compost is a great soil amendment and provides nutrients and micro-organisms to your soil. The microorganisms make the nutrients available for the plants to take up. If you want to make a tea, let the diluted mixture sit and grow for 12 to 24 hours with added aeration, by frequently stirring the mix or by using a water pump. The bacteria in the mix will explode in numbers making it a very potent source of micro-organisms. Click here to read more about boosting your compost pile.
  28. Alfalfa
 – Alfalfa is commonly used as part of livestock feed. However, alfalfa meal is simply ground up so that it breaks down faster. This particular fertilizer has low amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. As a result, alfalfa meal works fairly slow. The best use for this fertilizer is as a soil amendment in the early spring prior to planting crops.
  29. Nettles
 – The stinging hairs of the nettle plant may deter you from using this bad boy, but if you can stand it, put your harvest into a 5-gallon bucket, and cover them with water. In 3 to 4 weeks, you’ll have wonderful plant food for your garden.
  30. Hydrogen Peroxide
 – Your plants’ roots will thank you for a little extra oxygen. Mix 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide with 2 cups of water. Water your plant’s roots with the solution.
  31. Pine needles or Straw
 – Adding pine needles supplies nitrogen to your soil. It also adds bulk that will bring in the beneficial microbes to help break them down. NOTE: Too much straw or any other high-carbon, “brown” material can rob your plants of nitrogen, because the bacteria will steal the nitrogen from the soil as it seeks a brown/green balance for the decomposition process.
  32. Blood Meal
 – Add crucial nutrients like phosphorus and nitrogen to the soil by using blood meal to promote healthy plant growth. Want to make your own blood meal? You can! Gather the blood. If you’re a woman, use your menstrual blood by collecting it in a menstrual cup. You can gather it from your meals, or from butchering some of your animals, too. Either way, pour the blood onto a baking sheet. Put it into a 375° oven. Keep it in the oven until all the blood is completely dry, about 20 minutes. Let cool. Scrape the dried blood off the baking sheet and into a container. Use a mortar and pestle to ground the blood into a fine powder.
  33. Fish Emulsion
 – Fish emulsion fertilizer is high in nitrogen but pretty stinky! It is also very acidic and should be used lightly to avoid burning plants. Nonetheless, fish emulsion acts immediately once it is applied, which makes it a good treatment for leafy greens that are suffering from low nitrogen levels. Be sure to experiment. Some plants may not tolerate it very well. There is a recipe below!
  34. Ground oyster shells
 – You may or may not have access to oyster shells, but they are a slow-release fertilizer to keep your garden healthy. Crush them into small pieces and bury them in the garden. The calcium carbonate in the shells will make the soil alkaline. Again, make sure you know your soil before adding this amendment.
  35. Nut Shells – 
Pop the nut in your mouth and toss the shell into the garden. It’s a win-win! Nut shells add bulk, which will allow water and nutrients to get to the plant roots. Microbes will be super-happy with your discarded shells.

Five More Easy Homemade Fertilizers

Comfrey Tea

What you’ll need:

  • Brick to hold the comfrey leaves down
  • Big bucket or plastic trash can with a lid
  1. Submerge your leaves for 3 to 5 weeks in a bucket or trash can of water. It depends on the warmth of  your climate.
  2. Mix the comfrey solution with more water to dilute (so it doesn’t damage or burn the root systems of plants), a 1::3 (water) ratio should work.
  3. Store in a cool dark place.

WARNING: Comfrey Tea stinks like crazy, but is OH-so good for your plants!



For Acid Loving Plants

Mix 1 tablespoon of white vinegar in one gallon of water. Hand water your acid loving plants.

Seed Starter Organic Fertilizer

What you’ll need:

  • 1 drop of organic liquid dish soap
  • 2 drops of ammonia
  • 1 tablespoon of worm castings
  1. Place the above into a one quart misting bottle.
  2. Fill with water.
  3. Shake it gently and mist the surface of the seed container every day until you start to see little sprouts.

Homemade Fish Emulsion

Don’t buy fish emulsion. You can make it with this recipe! Click here to get the homemade recipe.


 Apartment (or Condo) Container Garden Smoothie Fertilizer

What you’ll need:

  • Compost bucket
  • Blender
  • Kitchen scraps
    • Egg shells
    • Vegetable scraps
    • Banana peel broken into small pieces
    • Old coffee grounds
    • Used bulk herbs from herbal teas
    • Spent fruit (non-moldy)
    • Stale sea-vegetables
  1. Place all scraps in blender.
  2. Fill blender halfway with water. Don’t add too much water because there is already liquid in your kitchen scraps. (You don’t want your blender to explode compost all over the kitchen!)
  3. Place lid on blender.  Start on a low setting and puree until everything is combined and becomes a liquid.
  4. Feed it to your container soil.

Other Options:

  • Pour it on top of the soil, and let it sit for 24 hours. Then, water it in or turn the soil.
  • Water it in as soon as you put it on the container’s soil.
  • If you already have plants in place, pour the mixture into large bucket and fill with water.  Then pour the water-liquid over soil.

There are a lot of different types of fertilizers for you to try. However, use what you have locally or in your home to save you some money. If you are in the Midwest, there is no point in ordering Oyster Shells. Use what you have! Whether you are a Hobby Farmer or a Container Gardener, here are your first steps in a nutshell (pun intended!)

  1. Start your compost pile. Regardless of what your soil test tells you, a compost pile will be an invaluable source of nutrients that will feed your soil’s microbes and your plants.
  2. Get a soil test to know and understand what your soil needs. More than likely your county extension office will have soil testing kits.
  3. Understand what your plants need at different times of the season. Are they growing, flowering, or needing to add roots? Fertilize at the right time with the right organic fertilizer!
  4. Make up a batch of fertilizer that is just right for your garden. Experiment. Learn. Have fun!
  5. Remember that gardening is an adventure. Try different things and make note of the results. Some things may work better for you than others. You be the judge!


What’s your favorite organic fertilizer and how do you use it in your garden? Tell us in the comments below. We’d love to hear about your gardening adventures!

Keep growing!



organic fertilizer land














Marjory Wildcraft is an Expedition Leader and Bioneer Blogger with The [Grow] Network, which is an online community that recognizes the wisdom of “homegrown food on every table.” Marjory has been featured as an expert on sustainable living by National Geographic, she is a speaker at Mother Earth News fairs, and is a returning guest on Coast to Coast AM. She is an author of several books, but is best known for her “Grow Your Own Groceries” video series, which is used by more than 300,000 homesteaders, survivalists, universities, and missionary organizations around the world.

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  • Mondo says:

    Wow this was really helpful glad you shared with the rest of the world ,we need to educate others on this topic ,its so important ,,to have a steadfast garden with these tips n tricks people everywhere can now enjoy the fruit of there labor ,,good on you thanks so much..mondo

  • jon draw says:

    What fertilizer do you recommend to help time grow so we have enough of it to do everything?!!!

  • Sandy Jones says:

    I was really interested in the section about the citrus rinds. I had heard that they weren’t good for earthworms.

  • Farmer Phyl says:

    These are all good ideas for some gardens… but not all gardens. Just because it’s organic doesn’t mean it’s always good for your soil or plants. Vinegar will add instant and temporary acidity to the soil, but but will also kill many soil microbes and decomposers reducing the overall natural fertility of the soil. And too much nitrogen, especially quick release forms, and it will cause organic matter in the soil to decompose very quickly depriving the soil microbes of food and reducing soil fertility. Excessive nitrogen can sometimes increase aphid problems too. So use a little caution.

  • krys says:

    Marjory, I’m STILL not a land-owner (yet!) but with your amazing, benevolent and wise advice, I’ve learned sooo much! I’ve never dabbled in a garden so far but look forwards to doing so once I get my own place. Thank you & bless you and yours always.

  • Sheila Fontaine says:

    I am using the weeds in a bucket. Just add water cover stir daily. Brew 2-3 weeks. One cup of rough and fill the watering can. One Bucket fertilized my fence line 60 feet, and all my potted plants. Nice green leaves with in three days. I have several buckets on hand. Every one has weeds. So thank you all for all the hard work I learned so much. I love gardening and not paying a thing for fertilizers.With the money I saved I was able to buy a ecostove and use up all my garden sticks. The ash and coal for the garden as well. Next a solar oven. I do not live off the grid but I sure could.
    I thank you all for all the information. As we learn new ways to improve our soil. I am not able to use them all. But with the good information you gave. There is something for everyone.
    Happy gardening!

  • Edward Lye says:

    Basically I just chuck everything into my wet compost pile{broken pail/tub/container with a 3foot cylinder of wire mesh around it – the container ensures that the pile is kept moist and the load of leaves/twigs/whatever ensures no mosquitoes breed}. Everything goes … except … mangosteen shells which never seem to rot or be attacked by fungi or mould. Humanure is harvested using a large slotted spoon tied to a generously loooong handle then covered with grass clippings. I have one roadside dead cat under a pile of grass clippings and tea leaves from a local coffee shop.

    What is the proper ratio to dilute urine? Most websites recommend 1 to 10 in order not to kill earthworms. 1:2 seems quite potent to me.

    Comfrey is not native to tropical Asia. What other plant/weed is its equivalent here?

  • Debbie says:

    Regarding newspaper, I remember reading waay back that black ink was okay, but some colored inks sometimes had something toxic in them. I am wondering if this is still the case. Weed tea sounds great, as I always have plenty of weeds around. I would also like to know if I can make a tea out of slugs and snails, as I have been picking them off my brassicas by the hundreds and throwing them in a bucket of soapy water.

  • Charles Pledge says:

    Some great information. I have done organic gardening for a number of years and was familiar with about everything except Comfrey tea for vegetables. Thanks. Wish I could print it to add to my notes.

  • Joanne says:

    Thank you fo the excellent informative article Marjory. Lots of great ideas to try. I would like to add…for those who make Kombutcha (fermented tea)…and eventually have too many SCOBYs (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), that SCOBY’s are great for the compost/soil. I’m guessing that you could blend a SCOBY with water and add it to your soil too. It’s already fermented so I’d add it to soil directly. Thanks again Marjory. Love your emails.

    1. Debbie says:

      Please let me know about this, as I was just wondering what to do with extra SCOBYs. They won’t dissolve in water, so would you chop them in a food processor or blender? How about extra Kombucha for the compost tea?

      1. Laura Nilsen says:

        I used to blend my SCOBY’s with water and pour in the garden or just throw the thing in the compost.

  • Jemima says:

    No mention of Epsom Salts? One tablespoon per gallon is supposed to help…

  • Rose Hayles says:

    Great information! I am a Master Gardener but no matter, I am always learning and the knowledge is endless. Thank you!

  • tracy says:

    Hi Marjory

    I keep hearing about adding urine to your garden. I wonder what the impact of the urine would be if you are on medication…

  • Julie says:

    On the citrus, does it matter that they’ve been soaked in some alcohol?

  • Emeka Onah says:

    Can I maket your product here in Nigeria

  • Tammie Kruse says:

    This is a great article, Thank You for sharing.

  • Daniel Gatoto says:

    I am interested in organic farming and planning to start activity soon

  • Five Acre Farmgirl says:

    I LOVE all these ideas…however, I do have questions about composting,,,I live extremely rural and have severe bear problems..
    THEY LOVE COMPOST…does anyone have any suggestions..????????????
    I compost my composting toilet and stuff that does not draw them, but, hate throwing away other stuff that can compost…HELP!
    Thanks for any suggestions….
    Five acre farmgirl

  • Five Acre Farmgirl says:

    Hello…I LOVE to compost, but, have extreme bear problems…
    does anyone have any suggestions……
    bears LOVE compost…HELP !
    Five Acre Farmgirl

    1. Debbie says:

      I have bear problems as well. You could try burying what attracts them under a good layer of things they do not like, so hopefully they will not smell anything they want to eat. Also, I believe bears are deterred by ammonia, so you might put some ammonia in a spray bottle, and spray it around and on the compost. Of course, you will have to reapply it frequently, especially after rain. Unfortunately, once bears have discovered a food source, they can be quite persistent in returning to it.

  • Betty Montgomery says:

    Okay, maybe I’m being picky but with a Masters degree in Broad Field Earth Science I just can’t let it slide. Sigh. Sorry.
    Granite is NOT volcanic rock. It IS an igneous rock. The difference: Volcanic rock is what you get when magma runs out of a volcano and hardens on the surface of the earth. The mineral crystals in it are either very tiny or absent altogether as it becomes the super liquid known as volcanic glass. Igneous rocks, such as granite, are rocks that were not extruded into a volcano or on to the surface of the earth but cooled very slowly underground allowing all those beautiful little crystals of various minerals to form giving the rock it’s distinctive look. I could go on about this as, obviously, I’m fascinated by such things, but I don’t want to take up much of your time. Until later then and just remember the old, old geologists joke : Don’t take all your rocks for granite.
    Oh, and thanks for the fertilizer ideas!!

  • Patty Sullivan says:

    This is all very helpful with the exception of a few things that need to be brought to
    light >
    1) Unless the Beer is organic, the grains used in the brewing process are all GMO.
    2) 90% of soy is GMO. So are the soy-based inks on printed newspaper. Unprinted
    plain newsprint paper, on the other hand, is fine.
    3) I believe Alfalfa is now largely GMO.
    4) Before mixing straw into the soil or into compost, one should find out if it has been sprayed with pesticides, fungicides, or glysophate in the field. In other words, one should know the source.
    5) No GMO grains, non-organic breads, or GMO produce should ever be added to the
    compost pile. EWG (Environmental Working Group) has great information on pesticides, etc. on produce.
    6) Any fish that now comes from the Pacific Ocean has elevated levels of radiation from Fukushima. According to oceanographers, the ocean floor off the West Coast is
    now totally littered with dead sea animals.
    7) Any fish or crustacean from the Gulf of Mexico is now contaminated with Corexit
    from the Horizon debacle. Corexit is poison.
    8) All freshwater streams in the USA are contaminated with Mercury from power plant
    9) Although large gardens and farms are watered from the sky because of little choice,
    I personally grow organics in smaller plastic-roofed raised beds and water with well water. This is because the chemtrails covering us most days and falling with the rain
    are loaded with aluminum, barium, lithium, mycoplasm, and who knows what else
    all in the name of fighting “global warming” (that as not been helped by human
    unconsciousness) that is the result of changes that are happening in our solar system.
    These are destroyers of the fungal layer and soil micro-organisms, making our soils
    even more depleted.
    10) Natural NPK in a diverse organic compost is great in the beginning, but when plants
    start to flower and fruit, nitrogen should be reduced to a minimal, even 0%

    I have been an organic gardener and avid self-health researcher for decades. I hope
    that is information proves helpful to you, even if it is somewhat disheartening. We
    really need to be incredibly informed to stay healthy. Grassroots sharing is vital to
    our longevity.

    1. Kathy says:

      Still better than store bought. We can’t avoid everything. Not all alfalfa is gmo as well as barley that beer is made from. I use manure from my grass and alfalfa fed cows, works great, don’t need to add anything else. My garden is abundant.

  • Kelly says:

    Only problem is when starting a new garden there just isn’t enough material without importing to succeed. Going forward the garden does turn out better, the liquid fertilizer’s like compost tea are very helpful.

    1. David lally says:

      To a point you can use a lot of kitchen waste that is organic… Also to add life to your soil make a compost tea from the top layers of an old woodland or forrest soil. You don’t need much so the forrest won’t miss it and it is bursting with life that is great for any soil! Also add some old rotting wood to the tea to boost fungal life, airate the tea and feed black molasses to the tea to increase life over a 24h period. …. it also helps if the water temperature is a tad warmer (not hot just warm).

  • David lally says:

    Hydrogen peroxide!!!! Organic ? …. some good ideas on here but seriously this is bad advice on the whole… keep your soul healthy and your plant will follow, it’s that simple ! Add some worms, some organic matter and make compost teas and you won’t go far wrong with feeding. Add perlite or coco or even sand for fast drainage and oxygen retention. Know the difference between water soluble and readily available feeds and feeds that need to be broken down by micro life with in the soil.

  • Will Stecklair says:

    Hello, great article!


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